The day started out early. I got up at 5:30, and rushed to get ready for the bus that was taking us south to the city of Hosanna. The bus ride was to be 3 ½ hours long, so we were leaving at 6.
Hosanna is where the satellite location of the foster care center is located. Most of the children that this agency cares for come from the southern part of Ethiopia, so many of them are relinquished in Hosanna. The children stay there for a couple of weeks to get basic medical care, and then they move them up to the care center in Addis Ababa.
Mihiret has been in Addis Ababa since late May. The purpose of this trip was for all of the families to meet with the respective birth parents of our children. To comprehend, let alone convey, the power of this meeting is impossible; I will instead simply keep it to the facts. The emotions go beyond anything I am capable of writing.
The bus was full by the time I got downstairs to board, just as the sun was coming up and a light rain was falling. They had an extra passenger van that sat three. One family, a nice young couple adopting an infant, sat on board. I was so grateful to be on this van because, rather than having to engage in social banter, I could have a long opportunity for reflection and observation of what I saw along the way.
The road from Addis Ababa to Hosanna has been recently completed. Apparently, in the not so distant past, it was a dirt road. In many ways, it’s a lot like the two-lane highways in Virginia. But there are very few vehicles. There are NO private cars. You see only large passenger vans or trucks. In that way, it’s not at all like a Virginia two-lane highway.
Also, the left hand/right hand side of the road seemed rather flexible. Because there is so little traffic, folks seem to drift back and forth between the two. Our driver’s style was reminiscent of a NY taxi. He honked the horn at anyone walking along the highway (which was pretty much all along the way). He darted in and out and got mad when someone with a goat, or a cow, or a cart, got in his way. He attempted some near misses of kids and old men.
The goats, cows, and carts were an integral part of the life along this highway. Clearly, this highway, as most highways in the US, was a main thoroughfare that had grown up spontaneously and had been used for many years for people on foot before the government paved it and made it ready for motor vehicles. I’m sure there were some eminent domain issues involved since a lot of the huts and small subsistence farms were right up on the road. From what I’m learning about this government, imminent domain is kind of arbitrary and unilateral; there is no government appeal, and the people have no say in anything. They are not reimbursed in any way, simply evicted.
The lives of those living along the highway appear to be continuing as they always have. Children play right along the shoulder, and sometimes in the middle of the road. They wave at you and smile as you drive by. Women washed clothes in the water of the concrete storm drains that lined the sides of the road. A man in tattered pants was washing his feet in it.
Many, many people walk along this road, and they are of all ages. They seem to disregard that this is a motor highway, so walk sometimes five or more abreast. Our driver honked and honked and never slowed down when he saw them. They would move to the side, but were clearly, and justifiably, not very happy about it.
The ways that people organize land and community seem to have some commonalities with the US. Largely, the highway led through farmland, and then eventually you would come upon a town. The towns here were commercial storefronts mingled with residential buildings. It appeared that a family who owned a business would build the store along the street, and live in the back of it.
You don’t walk into these stores. Rather, they are tin lean-tos that are sometimes covered in mud, and sometimes painted bright colors. They are the size of a NYC newsstand, with a shutter that opens in the front, all the goods behind the counter, and a store operator standing there waiting for customers. Many people mingled in front of the stores. At each town, there appeared to be a ping-pong table and a foosball table set up somewhere in front of one of the stores.
The women wore long skirts, the men pants and western clothes. In each of these towns, and there were about six along the way, some people seemed well fed and healthy, and some destitute. They all mingled. One or two women I saw were in western clothing, but for the most part, the clothing was traditional. I took a few pictures, but wanted to save the camera battery for meeting Mihiret’s father.
At one point along the road, the driver stopped to allow the bus to catch up to us. He told us we could get up to stretch our legs. We got out. We were very white and conspicuous.
The children gathered from the side of the road to stare, which they do a lot when they see us anywhere here. There were three sisters, about 10, 8, and 5 was my guess, who poked their heads out from behind bushes one at a time, and trepidaciously came across the highway to look at us. They weren’t begging, but were curious. These three girls were particularly thin compared to the other children. Their hair was long, which is unusual, and unkempt. The other woman asked to take their picture, but that felt weird to me, so I didn’t. I didn’t know what to do. We were advised not to give to beggars. Coward that I am, I went and sat in the van. The driver said we would move on, and I turned around and saw the bus coming up in the distance. I heard these words in my head “When I was hungry, you did not feed me.” I reached into my bag and got the one Odwalla bar I had left for the trip, along with some cash, and ran out the side door. I handed the bar to the littlest one, and the money to the biggest. I smiled at them, turned, and ran back.
The van moved on and, eventually, we arrived in Hosanna. The road turned to dirt for the last mile. It had recently rained, so the dirt was mud and the potholes were deep puddles. The driver of the van weaved in and out to avoid the craters, and we were bounced all around. I have since heard that this bouncing action is called an “African massage.”
We arrived at the Hosanna care center and were taken into a room. There were about 20 of us; about 8 families, some with their current children in tow. The room was a carpeted lounge with a TV, a table, and a woman sitting at a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony in the corner. She was roasting the beans as we came in.
They explained that they had three meeting rooms to meet the birth families. So, they would call us three families at a time, and we had a thirty minute limit. As it has many times this week, my heart beat rose to my throat. I found a seat on the floor and proceeded to quietly freak out. Everyone was kind of silent with the occasional comment back and forth.
They called the first group, and I wasn’t in it. I took the seat that was vacated by one woman and sat next to her sister who had accompanied her on the trip. We talked a little, but I was not very engaged in the conversation with all the nerves. Thirty minutes wore on slowly as the lady in the corner took some frankinscence and threw it on the hot coals. The smoke filled the room, and the childhood smell of Easter Sunday Mass brought me back to Sacred Heart Church and Monsignor Kelly.
They came in and called one more. It wasn’t me. About ten minutes later. It wasn’t me. About 5 minutes later I heard Mihiret’s name. I got up from the chair as if a string were pulling me from the top of my head, and walked outside, along the covered porch, to the door of the little yellow room with five mismatched sidechairs and an old banged up desk desk. I could see Mihiret’s father sitting with his back to the door. I walked further in, and he turned around, extending me his hand.
I went to take his hand, and my emotions got the better of me, so I just reached around his neck and hugged him. He was shaking; this was not culturally correct, but it was something I wanted for Mihiret, something I could tell her when she was older, what it felt like to hug her birthfather.
Mihiret’s birthfather sat, and I sat opposite him. The social worker, who was also the interpreter, sat between us to the side. Mihiret’s birthfather looked at the floor, then at me, at the floor than at me. I didn’t know what to say, although I had a cheat sheet of questions they gave me. I was supposed to take notes, but I couldn’t. It seemed rude. So, I just held the paper and pen on my lap.
First I introduced myself, told him about my husband and son, our work, and where we live, and took the framed picture of our family from my lap and handed it to him. He looked at it curiously, and placed it in his lap as I told him who the people were.
Before I had a chance to ask, he began to explain why he formed an adoption plan for Mihiret. The details of this are part of Mihiret’s personal story, and belong only to her and our family, so I cannot divulge it in this space. But, suffice it to say that the reasons are painful, and his love for his daughter is deep and enduring. He told me about her extended and immediate family, and the events that led up to his taking Mihiret to Hosanna.
I gave him a second framed picture of Mihiret, taken recently, showing her healthy, with a full head of curls, full cheeks, and a flower in her hair. He called her name, took the picture to his lips reverently, and kissed it once, twice, three times before holding it to his heart. His smile was wide, and there was only a single tear from his left eye. This was a man of great strength and dignity. For sure, this was a great man, and Mihiret will know that.
We continued to talk, and eventually each felt a sense of some relief — if not relief from sadness, perhaps from excessive worry. We were told that the session was over. We rose from our chairs, and this time I let him shake my hand and touch my cheek with his, as is the tradition. We were led outside, and I was asked to get my camera. I ran back into the sitting lounge, got my camera from my bag, and one of the care center workers took our picture together. I asked them to take one picture of Mihiret’s father alone, and they did, and it’s a great picture. We then parted.
I went back into the room, and we waited a bit until all the parents were finished. There was a lot of weeping. I wasn’t weeping, just sad. The social worker came in when everyone was done. They told us that we would now have a coffee ceremony, followed by a candle ceremony with the birthparents. A man went around with popcorn (popcorn and coffee is a tradition here, it seems). It was sweetened like kettle corn. The woman then rose with a small iron pan full of roasting, smoking coffee beans. One by one, she went around the circle and held it under each of our noses to smell. She then went back to the coffee pot and cups. She filled each cup with one small heaping spoon of raw sugar, poured the coffee in each one, setting the full ones on a large steel tray. The man went around with the tray, and handed us each a cup, and we drank. Things started to calm down a bit within us and among us, and folks began talking a little bit.
After about 10 minutes, the social worker entered the room and told us it was time for the candle ceremony. They asked us to line up shoulder to shoulder as we were called. They called us by our child’s name. I got in line when I heard “Mihiret.”
Then, the birth parents came in one by one, standing on the opposite side of the room, each facing the adoptive parents of their children. The man lit a candle on the small table, and placed several other candles on the table. One by one, the birthparents picked up a candle, lit from the single flame, and gave the lit candle to the adoptive parents. Mihiret’s father gave me the candle, looking me in the eye only briefly, bowing his head as he turned and walked back to his place in the line facing me. He was shaking.
The birthparents then were asked to recite a prayer in their own language. It was a prayer asking us to care for their children and trusting us with their children’s lives. We then said a prayer thanking them for the gift of their children, promising to care for them, and never let them forget they are proud Ethiopians. I was weeping half way through and could barely get the words out. When it was done, we were told, “You can now say goodbye.” I walked to Mihiret’s father, shook his hand, pressed his cheek to mine, and whispered “Amasegenalahu,” “thank you from the bottom of my heart.”
He turned and walked out, and my heart pulled out with him, but my feet had to stay where they were.
It was then that I finally began to weep, then to sob, then to wail in a way I have not wailed since my father died. As at my father’s wake, I felt my mother’s arms around me, letting me cry, wanting to comfort me. She came to my in spirit, and then in the people in the room who saw how excessively I was crying, and wanted to help. Through tears and snot rolling over my upper lip, I told her I was angry. Angry that the world is like this, that I can’t help him except to give his daughter hope for the future. Angry that our country is so focused on its own greed and aggression when it has every means at its disposal to help this nation. Angry at the leaders of Ethiopia who let this happen to their people as they live off of government lard. I was angry for this man because he has nothing, and angry at myself because I have everything I could wish for but don’t appreciate.
Then, I breathed, and grew silent as she just sat with me. After the emotions, they told us that we would now walk to the care center next door to see where our children first slept when they came. The walk was about two blocks along a dirt road lined with tall hedges. There were children everywhere. Not begging, just curious.
One of us asked if she could take their picture. They were thrilled because they like to look at the picture on the camera after it’s been shot. Apparently, each Sunday when a new group of adoptive families come to town, the kids know, and they come to greet them. So, we all began snapping pictures like crazy, showing the kids. One group of boys was fighting to be closer to the camera, laughing as they popped up in front of each other. I got lots of pictures, and was very grateful for the new camera my husband had given me.
We waved goodbye to the kids when we approached the front door of the care center, a small one story house with a large playroom/living room, and four sleeping rooms. We went first to the newborns, who were amazing. The rooms are small, so the bassinets have no space between them. There were about six bassinets in a 6 X 9 room. One baby was particularly thin, so had probably come in more recently but you could tell had been eating and sleeping well. He rested peacefully as we squeezed in a peered down on his little crib. The others were a little more lively, some sleeping two to a bassinet, foot to foot on opposite ends. They were all peaceful and happy.
We went to the toddler room, which was the room where Mihiret would have slept for her first couple of weeks. There was a new crew there, all precious, a little bleary eyed from their nap. These kids had puzzlement on their faces, half-asleep, seeming a bit disoriented. But there was no crying or fussing.
We saw another two rooms of babies, most in their first six months, including one set of twins. One had a full head of hair with little colored bands in it, and a set of unbelievably wide open eyes. I waved goodbye to her after playing for a few minutes.
We left the house, walked to the bus with the kids again, and waved goodbye.
On the road home, the social worker in our van said that there was a family in a hut along the way that would let us visit and take pictures. When we got there, we crossed the highway and their kids came running, led by the youngest, a toddler with a little yellow knit cap and the chubbiest cheeks. His brother, about six, followed and had a much more skeptical look on his face. I snapped some pictures of them and their house, and the goat tied up in the front. We were invited into the hut, and it was astoundingly large inside. There was a large pole in the middle, with supports fanning out from the top like the spokes of an umbrella. One wall was lined with all types, colors, and sizes of pots and dishes. The floor was hard, painted compressed mud, or cement. The mud walls had been painted white. Half the width was traversed by long, wood supports, running from wall to wall, that acted like loft beds. It was impeccably clean.
The mother and the rest of the children were there. The toddler followed us back and took off his hat. I greeted their mother, and, with her permission, took pictures of her home. Her baby blinked at the flash, and I blinked back, and everyone laughed. I told her that she had beautiful children and a beautiful home, thanked her, and walked with the others back to the van.
The rest of the ride home was like the ride back. I took more pictures, smiled and waved at people. I had some peace. I pray that Mihiret’s father slept well last night, picture of Mihiret by his side. I pray that his peace is lifelong, and that we are agents for good in his daughter’s, in our daughter’s, life. Amen.